NOLA
Re: Where is Taylor Sirard?
The Crescent City, NOLA, The Big Easy, N'awlins; whatever name you know it by, most have heard of New Orleans. This city has become almost synonymous with Mardi Gras, as it is home to the largest (and rowdiest) celebration. My image of New Orleans consisted of Mardi Gras beads, Voodoo witches, the iron-gated balconies of the French Quarter, Cajun food, and Jazz. Not an altogether inaccurate perception, but woefully incomplete.
That isn't to say my four days in the city gave me a complete and accurate perception of New Orleans. Four days is not enough time to experience the variety of things New Orleans has to offer. With that knowledge, I decided to sequester myself primarily to a few neighborhoods.
Figuring out exactly what those neighborhoods are is a bit more complex. An article by Dan Swenson of NOLA.com shows a myriad of ways the city is divided. I've tried my best to organize the places I visited into the right neighborhoods, but I make no claims to the accuracy of placement. Considering even locals debate the borderlines, it's safe to assume this is just fine.
I spent my time divided amongst the French Quarter, Garden Districts, and Uptown/Carrollton regions. The French Quarter is home to the infamous Bourbon Street and, by far, the most densely toured area of New Orleans. Across the freeway are the impressively manicured grounds of the Garden Districts, which match the historical mansions they surround. Although a Bay Saint Louis resident had described the Uptown/Carrollton region and having its own flair "in a Banana Republic way," I found this area to be the most down-to-earth.
Below is an interactive map of notable spots from my visit to New Orleans. Let's get into the deets, y'all!
First up is the French Quarter, where I landed upon arrival. Although I didn't spend much time here, I think it is a must for all first-time visitors. There's a constant party on Bourbon Street, and some other streets are shut down where brass bands are playing in the middle.
1. Jackson Square
The central hub of the French Quarter. It is enclosed by an artwork-filled gate on which artists set up shop for the day. No less than three performances are going on at once: magicians, musicians, mimes, and more.
2. Café Du Monde
This is the ultimate tourist destination of the Quarter. Everyone knows a trip to New Orleans isn't complete without one of their famous beignets.
3. Marie Laveau's House Of Voodoo
Another tourist destination, but considering the witchy shop allows no photos it's worth seeing first hand. This isn't just your local headshop with incense and dragon candles. Full shrines are tucked away in corners, tarot card readings are offered in the back, and supplies for any kind of magic abound.
4. Red Truck Gallery
One night I was fortunate enough to tour the Quarter with a local. After squeezing our way through a twerk mob outside of a liquor store, we drank beer while roaming the lively streets. On our walk, we passed by a gallery filled with art stranger than the rest in New Orleans (a hard feat.) We stood on the sidewalk conceptually analyzing the works for longer than my companion desired. But heck, if I didn't go to college for five years to stand drunk outside of a closed gallery to ponder the artist's intent, then what for?!
5. Sucré
COCONUT BASIL GELATO.
...they have many flavors and a long case of French pastries if that's not your deal.
Next are the immaculate Garden Districts (Garden District and Lower Garden District.) Walking around provides enough beauty to entertain, but I happened upon good eats and drinks, too.
1. Slim Goodies Diner
Imagine a classic eggs benedict, but instead of an English muffin, there's a latke. Throw off that rubbery slice of ham and replace it with spinach, avocado, and a crawfish cream sauce. Now you know why two out of four of my NOLA breakfasts were spent at Slim Goodies Diner. As an added bonus, the staff is absolutely lovely.
2. Dat Dog
I was delighted when I found out this local chain has veggie (and vegan!) dogs on their menu. They have over thirty toppings to select from, guaranteeing a sense of overwhelm. It's a counter order situation, after which you can select one of the bright yellow, red, or green seats. Loud 80s pop music was drowning out most other noises the evening I visited. Shortly after I ordered, a man in a Hawaiian shirt strutted out of the kitchen holding a basket of food. He called my name with a foreign accent that disappeared when he said, "you're welcome." Fun place.
3. Surrey's Cafe and Juice Bar
I stopped in this small cafe on a Wednesday morning and it was packed. I ordered a penny-pinching basic breakfast and splurged on the drink. The cold-pressed carrot orange juice was excellent. I hope to someday try the enticing Latin-inspired dishes on the menu.
By far, I spent the most time in Uptown and Carrollton. I even found a quiet neighborhood to park Bernie for a couple of nights. This area has a "young and hip" crowd, and businesses alike, thanks to the local universities.
1. Hey! Cafe
Coffee roasted in-house, cool stickers, and occasional shows. It was a good atmosphere for a day of writing. Here I picked up the March issue of ANTIGRAVITY, a free local magazine self-proclaimed as "your New Orleans alternative to culture." A great read, and an even better guide to small businesses and events in the area.
2. Peaches Records
Just next door to Hey! Cafe is the sprawling Peaches Records. Inside are rows of Vinyl, CDs, and cassette tapes with a hefty local music section. Not having the ability to play those types of media on the road, I didn't purchase any music. However, I did snag this patch that tickles my inner existential nihilist.
3. Superfood Bar
On the other end of my internal philosophy spectrum, is the part tickled by the Superfood Bar. All items are vegan! I had my first açai bowl, which was delicious, but if you're hungry I recommend getting a wrap.
4. Saint Charles Avenue
Whether by automobile or the St. Charles streetcar, a trip down this Avenue is New Orleans romance at best. Massive oak trees canopy the road, at the time I visited, still littered with Mardi Gras beads. The famous mansions, Audubon Park, and universities are sights worth seeing.
5. Gasa Gasa
I spent back to back nights attending shows at Gasa Gasa. The crowds were appropriate for a Monday and Tuesday night at a venue that describes itself as "intimate." Those nights' acts were a combination of touring and local bands styling in alternative rock. I watched with nostalgia for house shows I frequented back in Michigan.
6. Zots
This dark and eclectic coffee shop is wonderful. Mystical drinks, such as the 'Zombie Latte', are featured on the menu. One bathroom is painted in Day of the Dead skeletons, and the other with Renaissance floral patterns in deep, earthy hues. It seems to be the hub for local artists, with people meeting up to discuss proposals, working on digital illustrations, or listening to their friend's unreleased music projects. I felt right at home.
7. Euphorbia Kava Bar
Euphorbia is the kind of place where most of the customers are friends. They stand around chatting with the staff instead of sitting at one of the many open tables. One such man walked up and, noticing I was the only unfamiliar face, introduced himself with a hug. He stood talking and scratched his beard with the outside of the whole cantaloupe he brought in. After cutting the melon on the service counter, he kindly brought me a couple slices. Oh, and the kava is great, too.
8. rue de la course
A few blocks from Zots sits another coffee shop, as Google Maps states, set in a historic bank building. The ceiling of rue de la course reaches up to the second story except where a loft style seating area is tucked in the corner. The grand stone architecture remains intact, making it the perfect place for important work (or at least work that feels important in the rich setting.)
The Crescent City, NOLA, The Big Easy, N'awlins; whatever name you know it by, most have heard of New Orleans. This city has become almost synonymous with Mardi Gras, as it is home to the largest (and rowdiest) celebration. My image of New Orleans consisted of Mardi Gras beads, Voodoo witches, the iron-gated balconies of the French Quarter, Cajun food, and Jazz. Not an altogether inaccurate perception, but woefully incomplete.
 |
| [Image: One of the famous New Orleans water meter covers. The cover sits in cement with a rusty varnish. "WATER METER" is stamped on the center in large letters overlaying a crescent moon and stars graphic. Words along the perimeter of the circle, "SEWERAGE & WATER BOARD," "CRESCENT BOX," "FORD METER BOX CO. WABASH. IND," and "NEW ORLEANS. LA."] |
That isn't to say my four days in the city gave me a complete and accurate perception of New Orleans. Four days is not enough time to experience the variety of things New Orleans has to offer. With that knowledge, I decided to sequester myself primarily to a few neighborhoods.
Figuring out exactly what those neighborhoods are is a bit more complex. An article by Dan Swenson of NOLA.com shows a myriad of ways the city is divided. I've tried my best to organize the places I visited into the right neighborhoods, but I make no claims to the accuracy of placement. Considering even locals debate the borderlines, it's safe to assume this is just fine.
I spent my time divided amongst the French Quarter, Garden Districts, and Uptown/Carrollton regions. The French Quarter is home to the infamous Bourbon Street and, by far, the most densely toured area of New Orleans. Across the freeway are the impressively manicured grounds of the Garden Districts, which match the historical mansions they surround. Although a Bay Saint Louis resident had described the Uptown/Carrollton region and having its own flair "in a Banana Republic way," I found this area to be the most down-to-earth.
Below is an interactive map of notable spots from my visit to New Orleans. Let's get into the deets, y'all!
First up is the French Quarter, where I landed upon arrival. Although I didn't spend much time here, I think it is a must for all first-time visitors. There's a constant party on Bourbon Street, and some other streets are shut down where brass bands are playing in the middle.
 |
| [Image: A man sits cross-legged on a brick sidewalk holding a cigarette and grinning with his eyes tightly shut. To the right, a woman leans over with her arm wrapped around the man. Her other hand displays a peace sign and she is smiling. A plastic cup of a dark liquid and a tall neon party cup sit in front of the couple.] |
1. Jackson Square
The central hub of the French Quarter. It is enclosed by an artwork-filled gate on which artists set up shop for the day. No less than three performances are going on at once: magicians, musicians, mimes, and more.
2. Café Du Monde
This is the ultimate tourist destination of the Quarter. Everyone knows a trip to New Orleans isn't complete without one of their famous beignets.
3. Marie Laveau's House Of Voodoo
Another tourist destination, but considering the witchy shop allows no photos it's worth seeing first hand. This isn't just your local headshop with incense and dragon candles. Full shrines are tucked away in corners, tarot card readings are offered in the back, and supplies for any kind of magic abound.
4. Red Truck Gallery
One night I was fortunate enough to tour the Quarter with a local. After squeezing our way through a twerk mob outside of a liquor store, we drank beer while roaming the lively streets. On our walk, we passed by a gallery filled with art stranger than the rest in New Orleans (a hard feat.) We stood on the sidewalk conceptually analyzing the works for longer than my companion desired. But heck, if I didn't go to college for five years to stand drunk outside of a closed gallery to ponder the artist's intent, then what for?!
5. Sucré
COCONUT BASIL GELATO.
...they have many flavors and a long case of French pastries if that's not your deal.
---
Next are the immaculate Garden Districts (Garden District and Lower Garden District.) Walking around provides enough beauty to entertain, but I happened upon good eats and drinks, too.
1. Slim Goodies Diner
Imagine a classic eggs benedict, but instead of an English muffin, there's a latke. Throw off that rubbery slice of ham and replace it with spinach, avocado, and a crawfish cream sauce. Now you know why two out of four of my NOLA breakfasts were spent at Slim Goodies Diner. As an added bonus, the staff is absolutely lovely.
 |
| [Image: The Napolean Benedict from Slim Goodies Diner, as described above.] |
2. Dat Dog
I was delighted when I found out this local chain has veggie (and vegan!) dogs on their menu. They have over thirty toppings to select from, guaranteeing a sense of overwhelm. It's a counter order situation, after which you can select one of the bright yellow, red, or green seats. Loud 80s pop music was drowning out most other noises the evening I visited. Shortly after I ordered, a man in a Hawaiian shirt strutted out of the kitchen holding a basket of food. He called my name with a foreign accent that disappeared when he said, "you're welcome." Fun place.
3. Surrey's Cafe and Juice Bar
I stopped in this small cafe on a Wednesday morning and it was packed. I ordered a penny-pinching basic breakfast and splurged on the drink. The cold-pressed carrot orange juice was excellent. I hope to someday try the enticing Latin-inspired dishes on the menu.
---
By far, I spent the most time in Uptown and Carrollton. I even found a quiet neighborhood to park Bernie for a couple of nights. This area has a "young and hip" crowd, and businesses alike, thanks to the local universities.
1. Hey! Cafe
Coffee roasted in-house, cool stickers, and occasional shows. It was a good atmosphere for a day of writing. Here I picked up the March issue of ANTIGRAVITY, a free local magazine self-proclaimed as "your New Orleans alternative to culture." A great read, and an even better guide to small businesses and events in the area.
2. Peaches Records
Just next door to Hey! Cafe is the sprawling Peaches Records. Inside are rows of Vinyl, CDs, and cassette tapes with a hefty local music section. Not having the ability to play those types of media on the road, I didn't purchase any music. However, I did snag this patch that tickles my inner existential nihilist.
 |
| [Image: A patch is fastened to a jacket with a safety pin. A needle and thread are attached and a small row of stitches has begun to secure the patch down. The patch is circular with a desert landscape graphic including sand dunes, a skull, a cactus, and an eye floating in the sky. Around the perimeter of the patch are the embroidered words, "THE TRUTH IS NOWHERE" repeated three times.] |
On the other end of my internal philosophy spectrum, is the part tickled by the Superfood Bar. All items are vegan! I had my first açai bowl, which was delicious, but if you're hungry I recommend getting a wrap.
4. Saint Charles Avenue
Whether by automobile or the St. Charles streetcar, a trip down this Avenue is New Orleans romance at best. Massive oak trees canopy the road, at the time I visited, still littered with Mardi Gras beads. The famous mansions, Audubon Park, and universities are sights worth seeing.
5. Gasa Gasa
I spent back to back nights attending shows at Gasa Gasa. The crowds were appropriate for a Monday and Tuesday night at a venue that describes itself as "intimate." Those nights' acts were a combination of touring and local bands styling in alternative rock. I watched with nostalgia for house shows I frequented back in Michigan.
6. Zots
This dark and eclectic coffee shop is wonderful. Mystical drinks, such as the 'Zombie Latte', are featured on the menu. One bathroom is painted in Day of the Dead skeletons, and the other with Renaissance floral patterns in deep, earthy hues. It seems to be the hub for local artists, with people meeting up to discuss proposals, working on digital illustrations, or listening to their friend's unreleased music projects. I felt right at home.
7. Euphorbia Kava Bar
Euphorbia is the kind of place where most of the customers are friends. They stand around chatting with the staff instead of sitting at one of the many open tables. One such man walked up and, noticing I was the only unfamiliar face, introduced himself with a hug. He stood talking and scratched his beard with the outside of the whole cantaloupe he brought in. After cutting the melon on the service counter, he kindly brought me a couple slices. Oh, and the kava is great, too.
8. rue de la course
A few blocks from Zots sits another coffee shop, as Google Maps states, set in a historic bank building. The ceiling of rue de la course reaches up to the second story except where a loft style seating area is tucked in the corner. The grand stone architecture remains intact, making it the perfect place for important work (or at least work that feels important in the rich setting.)
---
After four days, New Orleans was pulling me in for a longer stay. However, I soon had a train to catch in San Francisco, so an extension wasn't possible. I am thankful my short visit provided me with plenty of spots to share. More posts about my NOLA experiences to come. Thanks for reading, and stay tuned! Click here to become a patron, receive exclusive content, and keep these blog posts coming!
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