Athens
Re: Where is Taylor Sirard?
It was Thanksgiving day when I arrived in Athens, Georgia. I drove through Athens' downtown, noticing colorful buildings and funky signs dissolve to a more traditional, grey cityscape. I thought it would be a nice place to spend the afternoon.
First, I stopped at a gas station to supplement my lack of sleep with a cup of coffee. Ready to explore, I left in search of a parking spot. Just a block ahead I saw a mini RV built on top of an 80s/90s Toyota truck bed, similar to the one I was driving(a 1986 Toyota Bandit, named Bernadette/Bernie). Excited at the site of Bernadette's distant cousin, I pulled in behind it. It seemed determined, by fate or coincidence, that I should start my exploration here.
I was parked less than five minutes when I heard nonchalant singing from outside the walls of Bernie. The singer lingered, and I suspected them to be the owner of the other RV. I swung the entry door open, leaning my head around with a bright, "Hello!"
"Ah, there you are." was the calm reply from the singer. I asked if he was the owner of the neighboring RV. He brushed off his confirmation as if it was utterly besides the point. I answered his few questions about Bernie.
The man abruptly ceased our small talk to ask if I wanted to go to a community Thanksgiving meal. He informed me it would be ending soon, which I interpreted as 'hurry up'. In one swift movement I grabbed my belongings and locked up. We set off on foot.
My new guide began dispensing any and all information a traveler would need to know about Athens. I learned where to park, what gym has the cheapest memberships, and a general overview of the city's culture. Not until halfway through our walk, did I learn my humble guide was called Kevin.
Kevin pointed out the best spots to get coffee, drink beer, and see live music. We walked through Athen's westside, where, as Kevin informed me, all the creatives hang out. This, in contrast to the eastside's club and sports bar scene occupied mostly by local Greek life members.
On our way we passed the famous 40 Watt Club music venue, although not the original, Kevin explained. He excitedly shared with me that Athen's has the best music scene for its size, with an abundance of local talent.
Kevin stopped just outside a restaurant with propped open doors and introduced me to the host. To my surprise, Kevin wasn't coming to the dinner himself. He left without saying goodbye and was halfway down the block before I noticed.
The restaurant was full of joyus people, and a buffet of food was set up in the middle. I decided to sit at the bar, and I picked a seat next to a man writing in a journal. My free meal unexpectedly came with service. The waiter kindly brought me only vegetarian selections from the buffet.
Not long after, my bar neighbor and I started a conversation. Wes, I learned, was a traveler and musician. After my meal we sat in the sun and he played me a song. I noticed flowers and incense weaved through the strings on the head of his guitar. Wes took me on a continued tour of downtown Athens, filling in all the areas Kevin and I missed. He loved this city, too. Wes claimed that after one year of living in Athens it was his forever home.
When I returned to Bernadette I found a coupon book under the wiper. There was a scrawled 'Great tofu!' next to a circled restaurant discount.
The serendipity of my first afternoon in Athens completely enraptured me. People, at least those I encountered, had a passion for the city. There was a small part of me wondering if I was unwittingly being recruited into a cult. However, I determined that Athens has a population too large for that kind of operation. Regardless, there was no turning back.
First, I stopped at a gas station to supplement my lack of sleep with a cup of coffee. Ready to explore, I left in search of a parking spot. Just a block ahead I saw a mini RV built on top of an 80s/90s Toyota truck bed, similar to the one I was driving(a 1986 Toyota Bandit, named Bernadette/Bernie). Excited at the site of Bernadette's distant cousin, I pulled in behind it. It seemed determined, by fate or coincidence, that I should start my exploration here.
I was parked less than five minutes when I heard nonchalant singing from outside the walls of Bernie. The singer lingered, and I suspected them to be the owner of the other RV. I swung the entry door open, leaning my head around with a bright, "Hello!"
"Ah, there you are." was the calm reply from the singer. I asked if he was the owner of the neighboring RV. He brushed off his confirmation as if it was utterly besides the point. I answered his few questions about Bernie.
The man abruptly ceased our small talk to ask if I wanted to go to a community Thanksgiving meal. He informed me it would be ending soon, which I interpreted as 'hurry up'. In one swift movement I grabbed my belongings and locked up. We set off on foot.
My new guide began dispensing any and all information a traveler would need to know about Athens. I learned where to park, what gym has the cheapest memberships, and a general overview of the city's culture. Not until halfway through our walk, did I learn my humble guide was called Kevin.
Kevin pointed out the best spots to get coffee, drink beer, and see live music. We walked through Athen's westside, where, as Kevin informed me, all the creatives hang out. This, in contrast to the eastside's club and sports bar scene occupied mostly by local Greek life members.
On our way we passed the famous 40 Watt Club music venue, although not the original, Kevin explained. He excitedly shared with me that Athen's has the best music scene for its size, with an abundance of local talent.
Kevin stopped just outside a restaurant with propped open doors and introduced me to the host. To my surprise, Kevin wasn't coming to the dinner himself. He left without saying goodbye and was halfway down the block before I noticed.
The restaurant was full of joyus people, and a buffet of food was set up in the middle. I decided to sit at the bar, and I picked a seat next to a man writing in a journal. My free meal unexpectedly came with service. The waiter kindly brought me only vegetarian selections from the buffet.
Not long after, my bar neighbor and I started a conversation. Wes, I learned, was a traveler and musician. After my meal we sat in the sun and he played me a song. I noticed flowers and incense weaved through the strings on the head of his guitar. Wes took me on a continued tour of downtown Athens, filling in all the areas Kevin and I missed. He loved this city, too. Wes claimed that after one year of living in Athens it was his forever home.
When I returned to Bernadette I found a coupon book under the wiper. There was a scrawled 'Great tofu!' next to a circled restaurant discount.
The serendipity of my first afternoon in Athens completely enraptured me. People, at least those I encountered, had a passion for the city. There was a small part of me wondering if I was unwittingly being recruited into a cult. However, I determined that Athens has a population too large for that kind of operation. Regardless, there was no turning back.
---
I spent the next ten days back and forth between Greensboro, a neighboring town, and Athens. In that short amount of time I developed a love for the city just the same, although surely not as profound, as the natives. I've compiled a list of reasons why below:
I spent many days working in this coffee shop/bar/music venue. Hendershot's is unashamedly hipster. Their logo image is a vintage, phonograph style record player. Offered some nights, is a $4.50 special of brick-oven-baked Totino's pizza and PBR 'tall boy' (24oz can). Along with the increasingly hip PBR, one can find a variety of local craft beers available. Hipster or not, I certainly enjoy their establishments.
The combination of services Hendershot's offers makes for a unique atmosphere. By late afternoon the place is infected with open laptops. As the sun goes down, the music is turned up and a new crowd files in. During one such transition period I was in an odd mix of students studying, friends meeting for and evening out, and a too-loud DJ for a comedy set lacking crowd energy. It was messy and I loved it.
The combination of services Hendershot's offers makes for a unique atmosphere. By late afternoon the place is infected with open laptops. As the sun goes down, the music is turned up and a new crowd files in. During one such transition period I was in an odd mix of students studying, friends meeting for and evening out, and a too-loud DJ for a comedy set lacking crowd energy. It was messy and I loved it.
The Right Size
Athens is my Goldilocks sized city. It is bigger than the town I most recently inhabited, Marquette, Michigan. Yet, smaller than the city in which I lived before that, Grand Rapids, Michigan. Like Marquette, Athens felt safe and everything I wanted was nearby. Somehow, Athens still had everything I look for in a bigger city. There were a variety of social and cultural experiences available without the overwhelm or noise of places like Grand Rapids or Chicago.
I am always on the search for conscious businesses. This co-op is small, but filled with great local/natural/gluten-free products. I visited often to stock up on fresh produce.
The University of Georgia Campus
Directly across the street from Athen's central downtown is UGA's campus. Apparently, a university budget allows for some fantastic landscaping. I'm talking picnic quality grass. Further wanderings around the historic campus buildings revealed a tranquil fountain, solar charging stations, and a small botanical garden.
Southern style, vegetarian, vegan options, breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Need I say more?
Avid is Athens' locally owned and operated bookstore. The sign outside gives an 'anti-established' date, which immediately piqued my interest. I had no intention to buy a book, but I stopped in. The curated selection was impressive. I found sections such as, feminist, local, POC authors, and comics. I left with a radical-themed planner, and a renewed appreciation for physical books.
The Music Scene
Athens is for (music) lovers. It is home to world-famous venues the 40 Watt Club and the Georgia Theater, and native land of R.E.M. and the B-52's. The city even offers a guided music history walking tour, for those interested in the finer details.
Performances happen every night of the week. I didn't have the budget to explore many venues, however plenty of local shows are available for a small cover charge. I saw a blues and bluegrass show at Hendershot's with one hell of a female vocalist. The fun I had at a Go Bar hardcore/punk show is better left for a separate post.
While in town I had the chance to tour the facility of record label Kindercore. Their vinyl record manufacturer, Kindercore Vinyl, houses the world's first ever automatic 45/7 inch vinyl press, along with two other automatic vinyl presses among the first made. It's a small operation of just a few friends, longtime Athens residents, and is a testament to the thriving local music culture.
Performances happen every night of the week. I didn't have the budget to explore many venues, however plenty of local shows are available for a small cover charge. I saw a blues and bluegrass show at Hendershot's with one hell of a female vocalist. The fun I had at a Go Bar hardcore/punk show is better left for a separate post.
While in town I had the chance to tour the facility of record label Kindercore. Their vinyl record manufacturer, Kindercore Vinyl, houses the world's first ever automatic 45/7 inch vinyl press, along with two other automatic vinyl presses among the first made. It's a small operation of just a few friends, longtime Athens residents, and is a testament to the thriving local music culture.
The LGBTQIA+ Community
Just a note to my fellow queers. Athens has a present community, with events, safe bars, and restaurants where you can comfortably go on an adorable gay date.
Just a note to my fellow queers. Athens has a present community, with events, safe bars, and restaurants where you can comfortably go on an adorable gay date.
Free Things to Do
For those with limited budgets(me), Athens provides several options for free entertainment. I visited the Georgia Museum of Art, then displaying a Mickalene Thomas exhibit. One afternoon, I spent far too little time wandering the State Botanical Garden of Georgia. I often scoped locally owned Flagpole Magazine's abundant free events section on their website.
By far, my favorite free event was a class I attended at cooperative yoga studio, Rubber Soul. The instructor Racquel, welcomed me in with a tour of the fun, cozy space. Bright woven tapestries covered the walls. Hung by the window was a row of unicycles and horns for the studio's clown class. I was encouraged to arrive early to settle in and help myself to a cup of complimentary hot tea. The classes are donation based, with a $5 suggested minimum. After hearing I was an instructor, Racquel invited me to lead the final relaxation. I happily accepted. Everything about my experience at Rubber Soul left my heart warmed.
The quality of free things available in Athens is impressive, and as a traveler, a great incentive to stay.
For those with limited budgets(me), Athens provides several options for free entertainment. I visited the Georgia Museum of Art, then displaying a Mickalene Thomas exhibit. One afternoon, I spent far too little time wandering the State Botanical Garden of Georgia. I often scoped locally owned Flagpole Magazine's abundant free events section on their website.
By far, my favorite free event was a class I attended at cooperative yoga studio, Rubber Soul. The instructor Racquel, welcomed me in with a tour of the fun, cozy space. Bright woven tapestries covered the walls. Hung by the window was a row of unicycles and horns for the studio's clown class. I was encouraged to arrive early to settle in and help myself to a cup of complimentary hot tea. The classes are donation based, with a $5 suggested minimum. After hearing I was an instructor, Racquel invited me to lead the final relaxation. I happily accepted. Everything about my experience at Rubber Soul left my heart warmed.
The quality of free things available in Athens is impressive, and as a traveler, a great incentive to stay.
The Grill
There is one thing I wholeheartedly love about American culture, and that is diners. I try to eat a healthy, mostly plant based diet, but I have yet to deny myself the pleasure of a haphazardly prepared breakfast platter. I am in love with the crudeness: rude waitresses, burnt coffee, no frills.
The Grill is just that, and it is open 24 hours. They embrace the 50s style with pink neon lights and white tiles. I had my usual diner fare of two eggs, hash browns, toast, and too many refills of coffee. The food was nothing special, and exactly what I was looking for.
There is one thing I wholeheartedly love about American culture, and that is diners. I try to eat a healthy, mostly plant based diet, but I have yet to deny myself the pleasure of a haphazardly prepared breakfast platter. I am in love with the crudeness: rude waitresses, burnt coffee, no frills.
The Grill is just that, and it is open 24 hours. They embrace the 50s style with pink neon lights and white tiles. I had my usual diner fare of two eggs, hash browns, toast, and too many refills of coffee. The food was nothing special, and exactly what I was looking for.
Athens is Nomad-Friendly
Living in an RV has its challenges, but some places, like Athens, make it easier than others. For parking overnight, I had a choice between two Walmart's, and several residential streets within walking distance of downtown. Also within walking distance are several gas stations with single stall restrooms. Traveler's paradise.
Living in an RV has its challenges, but some places, like Athens, make it easier than others. For parking overnight, I had a choice between two Walmart's, and several residential streets within walking distance of downtown. Also within walking distance are several gas stations with single stall restrooms. Traveler's paradise.
The People
An obvious and important part of the reason I fell for Athens was the people I met there. My tours with Kevin and Wes were the first of many delightful interactions I had. Whether they were natives, imports, or just visiting, everyone I met was excited to be there.
Thanks to those people and even more reasons than listed here, I was excited to be there, too.
Thanks to those people and even more reasons than listed here, I was excited to be there, too.
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